Toilet – Methods – Hair treatment by application of specific chemical composition
Reexamination Certificate
2000-01-28
2001-07-17
Manahan, Todd E. (Department: 3732)
Toilet
Methods
Hair treatment by application of specific chemical composition
C008S101000, C424S062000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06260556
ABSTRACT:
The present invention relates to anhydrous compositions for bleaching keratin fibers, in particular the hair, comprising a combination of at least one anionic amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one fatty chain, and/or at least one nonionic amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one fatty chain, and at least one cationic or amphoteric substantive polymer, to the use of these compositions for preparing ready-to-use bleaching compositions, to a process for bleaching keratin fibers using these compositions and to a packaging kit containing such a composition.
The bleaching of human keratin fibers, in particular the hair, is carried out by the oxidation of melanin, resulting in the dissolution and partial or total removal of this pigment.
Bleaching powders containing a peroxygenated reagent, such as ammonium or alkali metal persulphates, perborates or percarbonates, which are combined with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide composition at the time of use are generally used for bleaching the hair. Since peroxygenated salts and hydrogen peroxide are relatively stable in acidic medium, it is necessary to activate them at basic pH in order to obtain an adequate formation of oxygen. It is thus common to add alkaline compounds such as amines and alkaline silicates to bleaching powders.
This chemical treatment with oxidizing and alkaline agents is often very aggressive and modifies the chemical structure of keratin.
This is reflected in poor cosmetic properties of the hair, such as difficult disentangling, an unpleasant feel or coarse, dull hair, but especially in a degradation of the keratin fibers.
This degradation of the fibers is particularly undesirable since it irreversibly deteriorates the physicochemical properties of the hair. The hair becomes more porous and consequently more difficult to dry. It is more sensitive to various other hair treatments such as dyeing or permanent-waving, and its mechanical properties and surface properties are unfavorably modified, which is reflected, for example, by a reduction in the tractional or breaking strength or an increase in the coefficient of friction.
To overcome these drawbacks, use has been made hitherto of cationic or amphoteric substantive polymers. By applying these polymers to the hair, they improve its cosmetic properties, i.e., they make it softer, more shiny and easier to disentangle, but do not make it significantly possible to limit the degradation of keratin fibers.
The Inventors have discovered, surprisingly, that it is possible to significantly limit the degradation of keratin fibers by combining the cationic or amphoteric substantive polymer(s) usually used with one or more amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain, which are also referred to as anionic and/or nonionic associative polymers.
Consequently, one subject of the present invention is an anhydrous composition for bleaching keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers, comprising, in a medium which is suitable for bleaching, at least one alkaline agent, at least one peroxygenated salt and, in addition, a combination
of at least one anionic and/or nonionic amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one fatty chain, and
at least one cationic or amphoteric substantive polymer.
A subject of the invention is also the use of such an anhydrous composition to prepare a ready-to-use bleaching composition.
A further subject of the invention is a process for bleaching keratin fibers using the anhydrous bleaching compositions above, as well as a packaging kit containing such a composition.
Other subjects of the invention will become apparent on reading the description and the examples which follow.
The anionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain, which are used according to the present invention, in combination with cationic or amphoteric substantive polymers, are crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers comprising
hydrophilic units derived from one or more monomers containing ethylenic unsaturation bearing a free carboxylic acid function, and
hydrophobic units derived from one or more monomers containing ethylenic unsaturation bearing a hydrophobic side chain, and optionally
crosslinking units derived from one or more polyunsaturated monomers.
The monomer(s) containing ethylenic unsaturation bearing a carboxylic acid function is(are) chosen from ethacrylic acid, methacrylic acid and acrylic acid, preferably from methacrylic acid and acrylic acid and mixtures thereof.
The monomer(s) containing ethylenic unsaturation bearing a hydrophobic side chain can be (i) fatty alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids, or (ii) allyl fatty alkyl ethers.
(i) The fatty alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids are chosen, for example, from (C
10
-C
30
), preferably (C
12
-C
22
), alkyl ethacrylates, methacrylates and/or acrylates.
They encompass, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, as well as the corresponding methacrylates, i.e., lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.
(ii) The allyl fatty alkyl ethers forming the hydrophobic units of the anionic amphiphilic polymers of the present invention correspond to the formula
CH
2
═CR′CH
2
—O—B
n
—R (I)
in which:
R′ is chosen from a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
B is an ethylenoxy group,
n is an integer ranging from 0 to 100,
R is a hydrocarbon-based group chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl residues comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
One unit of formula (I), which is preferred according to the present invention, is a unit in which R′ denotes a hydrogen atom, n is equal to 10 and R represents a stearyl (C
18
) radical.
The crosslinking monomer is a compound comprising at least two non-conjugated polymerizable double bonds. Examples of which may include, but are not limited to, diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, polyallylsucrose or polyallylpentaerythritol.
Anionic amphiphilic polymers of the type described above are described, for example, in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,915,921 and 4,509,949 (copolymers of (m)ethacrylic acid and of (C
10
-C
30
) alkyl (m)ethacrylates), or in patent EP-0 216 479 B2 (copolymers of (m)ethacrylic acid and of allyl fatty alcohol ethers), the disclosures of both of which are hereby incorporated by reference.
Examples of preferred polymers may include, but are not limited to:
crosslinked polymers of acrylic acid and of (C
10
-C
30
) alkyl acrylate, such as the polymers sold under the names PEMULEN TR1, PEMULEN TR2 and CARBOPOL 1382 by the company Goodrich,
crosslinked polymers of acrylic acid and of (C
10
-C
30
) alkyl methacrylate, such as CARBOPOL ETD 2020 sold by the company Goodrich,
the oxyethylenated methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/stearyl methacrylate (55/35/10) terpolymer,
the oxyethylenated (25 EO) (meth)acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/behenyl methacrylate terpolymer, and
the crosslinked methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/steareth-10 allyl ether terpolymer.
The nonionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain, which can be used according to the present invention, encompass, for example:
celluloses or hydroxyalkylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as an alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl group containing an alkyl group which is preferably (C
8
-C
22
), such as the products NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS from the company Aqualon, BERMOCELL EHM 100 from the company Berol Nobel, or POLYSURF 67 from the company Hercules, or modified with polyalkoxylated alkylphenol groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 from the company Amerchol;
hydroxypropyl guars modified with groups comprising at least one (C
8
-C
22
) fatty chain such as the products ESAFLOR HM 22 (C
22
alkyl chain) from the company Lamberti, or MIRACARE XC95-3 (C
14
alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C
20
alkyl c
Legrand Frédéric
Millequant Jean
Finnegan Henderson Farabow Garrett & Dunner L.L.P.
L'Oreal
Manahan Todd #E.
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