Chemistry: natural resins or derivatives; peptides or proteins; – Proteins – i.e. – more than 100 amino acid residues – Chemical modification or the reaction product thereof – e.g.,...
Reexamination Certificate
1997-06-17
2004-03-09
Weber, Jon P. (Department: 1651)
Chemistry: natural resins or derivatives; peptides or proteins;
Proteins, i.e., more than 100 amino acid residues
Chemical modification or the reaction product thereof, e.g.,...
Reexamination Certificate
active
06703490
ABSTRACT:
The first object of the present invention is amphiphilic (hydrolipidic) complexes and more specifically proteins (and polypeptides) onto which fatty chains have been grafted. Said complexes may be qualified lipophilised proteins (and polypeptides). Other objects of the present invention are compositions, notably cosmetic, pharmaceuticals or food compositions which contain such complexes and methods for the preparation of said complexes.
The skin may be considered as an organ which separates and protects the human body from its environment. This effect of a barrier against external damaging effects is capital in order that the internal tissues suitably exert their function. External damaging effects are in fact many: luminous damaging effects (UVA, UVB, infra-red) which cause free radicals and fragmentation of the constituents of the skin, physical or mechanical damaging effects (abrasions, variations in temperature and hygrometry . . . ) which cause inflammations, chemical damaging effects (air and water pollution, contact with irritant or immunogenic elements), microbiological damaging effects (bacteria, viruses, fungi . . . ). In order to react to these various damaging effects, the skin possesses a certain number of specialised cells which sometimes form extremely well-characterised structures. This is the case of the corneocytes which, being different from keratinocytes, form a structure called the Stratum corneum which is specialised in the protection of the most internal areas of the skin. This superficial horny structure is the first protection against external damaging effects.
The use of cosmetic products and notably of hydration products also comes up against this natural barrier:
due to their small size, hydrophilic molecules of low molecular mass such as urea, lactic acid, amino acids, can penetrate via the Stratum corneum as far as in the deepest layers of the cutaneous tissues. The cosmetic effect obtained is a hydrating effect upon the deep layers of the epidermis and the dermis, an effect which is relatively short lived;
on the contrary, molecules of higher molecular mass such as proteins for example cannot cross this barrier. The Stratum corneum is in fact principally constituted of lipids (its lipid content neighbours 80% by weight), giving it a particularly hydrophobic character, totally incompatible with the hydrophilic character of most proteins used in the cosmetology field. In this case, the cosmetic effect obtained is a filmogenic effect, at times interesting for obtaining particular textures or “cosmetic feels” but which remains totally and exclusively superficial.
Thus, and consequently, the hydrophilic molecules used to this day in cosmetics are cast aside by this hydrophobic structure and either stay on the surface or penetrate the dermis very deeply. From this, the horny layer and the upper layers of the epidermis are under practically no influence of the active and notably hydrating substances used up to this day in cosmetics. Now, the feeling of dryness of the skin comes from the Stratum corneum and upper layers of the epidermis. It is therefore of utmost importance to manage efficiently hydrating this structure and more generally to render said structure accessible to various hydrophilic entities.
The Applicant, within the context of the present invention, has taken on this technical problem of hydration of the skin and more generally that of the optimisation of the expression of the activity of molecules of the protein or polypeptide type upon the Stratum corneum. In order to solve said technical problem, the Applicant proposes modifying the physico-chemical character of said molecules and to thus modify the behaviour of it. The Applicant proposes in fact to generate amphiphilic complexes by grafting fatty chains onto said molecules. The trans-epidermal penetrations of such complexes are different from those of the non-complexed molecules. Their stabilisation in the upper layers of the epidermis as well as on the capillary fibre (hair) has been demonstrated. Furthermore, very interesting and unexpected cosmetic even therapeutic effects of said complexes have been observed.
It has been described in the patent application FR-A-2 671 725 about polyose-fatty acid complexes which have hydrating and emulsifying properties. These complexes are obtained by reacting, in aqueous medium, at ambient temperature, fatty acids in a reactive form with polyoses. Said polyoses can intervene in an impure form and notably in a mixture with proteins. However, in this document, no mention is made of a “binary” protein-fatty acid complex and of the interesting properties it could have . . . In any case, the polysaccharides (polyoses) having a gellifying power much greater than that of proteins, obtaining hydrating and emulsifying complexes by liophilising such proteins could not be expected. Such is all the same one of the results obtained within the context of the present invention.
It has also been described:
in the patent U.S. Pat. No. 4,234,475 a method of preparing emulsifying agents which consists in reacting, at temperatures above 200° C., a protein and an acid, notably a fatty acid. At such temperatures, the degradation of each one of the reagents cannot be prevented, and notably the degradation of the protein (denatured and/or hydrolysed into peptides), whose properties are consequently inescapably altered;
in the application WO-A-93 22370 undecylenic acid derivatives obtained by reacting said acid in a reactive form, in an aqueous medium, at ambient temperature with a hydrophilic organic macromolecule having primary alcohol groups and/or primary amine groups, and notably with a protein. Said derivatives, very slightly fragrant, have conserved anti-fungal and anti-bacterial properties. By their approach, the expression of the activities of undecylenic acid have been above all sought-after.
Furthermore:
the application DE-A-34 22 496 describes an alcoholic disinfectant composition for the skin. Said composition contains a protein hydrolysate, a mixture of amino acids in fact,
the application EP-A-0 417 619 proposes, as a detergent showing a lesser agressivity towards the skin and the mucous membranes, the condensation products resulting from the chemical reaction between:
a hydrolysate of proteins whose average molecular mass is between 3,000 and 7,000; and
a C
12
-C
18
fatty acid; said chemical reaction being carried out at a pH between 7 and 12 and the protein(s)/fatty acid(s) molar ratio ranging from 1/0.5 to 1/3;
the application EP-A-0 283 601 describes elastin derivatives prepared from hydrolysed elastin. Said derivatives result from a chemical coupling between said hydrolysed elastin (non-native) and a fatty acid anhydride; said fatty acid intervening, with respect to the protein (hydrolysed elastin) in a weight ratio very much lower than 1.
Said condensation products according to EP-A-0 417 619 and elastin derivatives according to EP-A-0 283 601 are not complexes within the sense of the invention. Said complexes of the invention are always elaborated in the presence of an excess of fatty acid and can be elaborated with native proteins. This is explained below.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The Applicant in fact proposes novel amphiphilic or hydrolipidic complexes—protein(s)/fatty chain(s) complexes—which, as indicated above, have very interesting and relatively unexpected cosmetic even therapeutic properties.
It is herein specified that, in the present text—within the context of the present invention—the term protein is used to designate a “real” protein as well as a polypeptide (obtained eventually by synthesis).
Said complexes of the invention are, in a characteristic way, obtained from the reaction carried out at a temperature between ambient temperature and 80° C. between:
on the one hand, one (or more) protein(s), whose average molecular mass is greater than or equal to 5,000 Daltons; and
on the other hand, one (or more) fatty chain(s), whose carbon atom number is between 4 and 30, selected from fatty acids, fatty alcohols, fatty amines
Antoni Danielle
Graille Jean
Huc Alain
Perrier Eric
Pina Michel
Coletica
Weber Jon P.
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