Ammonia-free composition for dyeing keratinous fibres

Details Ammonia-free composition for dyeing keratinous fibres Ammonia-free composition for dyeing keratinous fibres

2000-10-20

2002-07-23

Douyon, Lorna M. (Department: 1751)

Bleaching and dyeing; fluid treatment and chemical modification

Dyeing involving animal-derived natural fiber material ,...

Hair dyeing

C008S405000, C008S407000, C008S410000, C008S411000, C424S070170, C424S047000, C260S001000, C514S062000

Reexamination Certificate

active

06423101

ABSTRACT:

This invention relates to an ammonia-free composition for colouring keratinous fibres.
It also relates to a method for colouring fibres, and in particular hair fibres.
The only methods for colouring hair able to cover the hair completely and durably are the methods of colouring by oxidation which lead to colourations known as permanent colourations.
During the oxidation reaction used in these methods, the colouring precursors, which are aromatic compounds belonging to the families of the diamines, amino phenols (or amino naphthols) and phenols (or naphthols), are oxidized in the presence of hydrogen peroxide and an alkaline base, preferably ammonia.
In a first step, these precursors are converted into highly reactive radical intermediates which couple between themselves to form, during the second step of the oxidative reaction, coloured polymers which can firmly fix into the keratinous fibre.
Until recent years, permanent colouring was performed in strong oxidizing alkaline conditions, in other words with high concentrations of hydrogen peroxide (generally 3%) in the final mixture and in the presence of a strong base such as ammonia to alkalize the medium (pH close to 11).
In this type of reaction, the hydrogen peroxide has two functions: to decolorize the existing pigments so as to avoid variations in colour resulting from the initial colour of the hair, and to initiate the oxidative process of the colouring agents.
The ammonia improves the dissolution of the colouring agents, and, by alkalinization of the medium, promotes the discolouration action of the peroxide by releasing active oxygen.
As a strong base, the ammonia also acts on the swelling of the fibre by causing opening of the scales. It thus promotes the penetration of the colouring precursors and ensures even distribution of the pigments as far as the core of the fibre.
This permanent colouring technique has always given excellent results, from the points of view of the coverage of white hairs (close to 100%), the range of shades available, and the resistance to washing of the colouration obtained. In fact, this type of colouring, which irreversibly changes the pigmentation of the hair, is very resistant to repeated shampooing.
Despite its good performance, this technique has several disadvantages, mainly resulting from the strong oxidizing alkaline conditions.
In frequent and repeated use, it can cause physico-chemical degradation of the fibre and irritate sensitive scalps. In the long term, the hair can become dry and harsh to the touch, and lose its softness and natural brilliance.
The applications must be renewed because the growth of the fibres in their original colour leads to an unattractive dividing line between the uncoloured and coloured sections. This appearance of uncoloured hair roots is often very unsightly and requires frequent corrective applications.
Ammonia is a highly volatile strong base which releases a disagreeable and stifling odour during the preparation of the product and its application. In addition, on the industrial scale, the evaporation of the ammonia involves problems in retaining a constant level of alkalinity during the manufacture of the product.
For this reason, new oxidation colouring compositions called “tone on tone”, which are semi-permanent and non-lightening, have appeared on the market in recent years. These new types of colouration use the same colouring precursors as the conventional oxidation colouring, but very often ammonia is replaced by monoethanolamine or aminomethylpropanol, and the peroxide concentration of the oxidant is approximately half reduced.
These colourations aim at young women aged from 25 to 40, who have a low percentage of white hairs, and seek natural shades or “fashions” covering their original colour transparently, without the appearance of uncoloured roots and without damaging their scalps. These new formulae are in fact very attractive for this type of customer who do not wish an irreversible permanent colouration.
However, these mild colourations with very attractive qualities do not offer the colouration efficiency of the conventional ammonia colourations, in particular regarding their coverage of white hairs and their resistance to shampooing. The alkaline bases selected cause less swelling of the hair than ammonia and the colouring agents are localized mainly in the cuticle and the outside of the cortex, and only rarely in the core of the fibre. This different penetration of the colouring agents in the fibre results in colourations which only cover 50% of white hairs and which only last for about ten washings. As they are non-lightening, they can only be used as a tone on tone colour to revive or deepen the natural colour, or to add highlights.
High concentrations of acrylic-itaconic copolymers are used as thickening agents in colouration compositions. Acrylic-dimethyldiallylammonium chloride copolymer is used in shampoo formulations. However, compositions containing these two compounds are not known.
It thus emerges from the prior art that there is no method for effective hair colouration which gives good coverage and resistance but which does not lead to problems in use.
The applicant has shown that it is possible to obtain such a colouration by using a ternary complex in the colouration compositions.
The object of the present invention is thus an ammonia-free composition for colouring keratinous fibres, and in particular hair, comprising an oxidant compound, colouring precursors and a non-volatile and odourless alkalizing agent, characterized in that it further comprises:
a quaternized copolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium and acrylic acid, subsequently referred to as quaternized polymer,
a quaternized silicone, and
an acrylic-itaconic copolymer esterified by one or more fatty alcohols, optionally polyoxyethylenated.
The quaternized copolymer, the quaternized silicone and the acrylic-itaconic copolymer advantageously form a complex within the composition. This ternary complex itself is an object of the present invention.
The quaternized copolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium and acrylic acid may correspond to formula I in the annexe, in which x may be between 1 and 1000, preferably between 1 and 100, and y and z may independently be between 0 and 1000, preferably between 0 and 100.
Except where otherwise stated, all the quantities of the components of the composition are expressed in percentage by weight.
The quaternized polymer is preferably a poly quaternium, such as polyquaternium-22 or polyquaternium-39. These compounds may be present at concentrations of between 0.1 and 1.5% by weight of the composition. A composition according to the present invention advantageously contains from 0.5 to 1% by weight of polyquaternium-22.
The quaternized silicone may be a polyquaternized polydimethylsiloxane corresponding to formula II in the annexe, in which R
1
represents a C
6
to C
20
alkyl group and n is between 1 and 1000, preferably between 1 and 100, such as a diquaternized polydimethylsiloxane. The R
1
group advantageously represents one or more alkyl groups derived from coconut oil. These quaternized silicones may comprise between 0.02 and 0.5% by weight of the composition and preferably from 0.05 to 0.25% by weight.
The acrylic-itaconic copolymer is advantageously substituted with one or more C
6
to C
20
alkyl groups, of which at least one is polyoxyethylenated, and corresponds to the general formula III in the annexe, in which R
2
and R′
2
represent alkyl groups, x′, y′ and z′ are integers between 1 and 1000 and preferably between 1 and 100, and n′ is between 1 and 100, preferably between 10 and 30, and even more preferably is 20.
R
2
preferably represents an acrylic and/or methacrylic acid ester, in particular an ethyl, butyl or methyl ester and R′
2
a stearyl or cetyl radical.
Such copolymers advantageously have a molecular weight of between 10
5
and 10
7
, and preferably close to 10
6
.
The concentration of acrylic-itaconic copolymer may be between about 0.1 and 10% by weight of the composition.

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