Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Live hair or scalp treating compositions – Permanent waving or straightening
Reexamination Certificate
2000-07-11
2003-01-14
Page, Thurman K. (Department: 1615)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Live hair or scalp treating compositions
Permanent waving or straightening
C424S070100, C424S489000, C424S464000, C424S401000, C132S203000, C132S204000, C132S205000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06506373
ABSTRACT:
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to an agent in the form of several components, in which dehydroascorbic acid, its derivatives or salts is present in anhydrous, preferably in solid form for carrying out the oxidative post-treatment for the reductive change in keratin fibers, particularly for the permanent waving of hair.
For the reductive change in keratin fibers, the hair is treated initially with a waving agent, which brings about an opening of the disulfide bonds of the hair keratin, and is then brought into the desired shape. Usually, keratin-reducing mercaptan compounds, such as the salts or esters of mercaptocarboxylic acids, are used here as waving agent. Subsequently, the hair is rinsed with water or a suitable intermediate treatment agent. The reduced hair fibers are then treated oxidatively with a fixative. In so doing, the disulfide bonds within the hair keratin are closed. These disulfide bonds determine the permanent durability of the deformation of the hair, especially when the hair is permanently waved or made smooth.
A portion of the disulfide and thiol groups of the hair keratin is oxidized to higher oxidation states of sulfur, especially to cysteic acid, by fixatives based on hydrogen peroxide, peroxide salts or bromates. By these means, the hair keratin is damaged irreversibly. In addition, in the case of peroxide-containing fixatives, the color pigment of the hair (melanin) is partially destroyed. This is associated with a brightening of the hair.
Different fixatives based on disulfides are known, which allegedly do not have these disadvantages.
The Japanese publication 04-112 818 discloses a fixative for permanent waves on the basis of riboflavin and glutathione (as oxidizing agent).
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
In the EP publication 0 448 185, a method is claimed for the treatment of keratin material, for which disulfides of the general formula Z—R—S—S—R—Z, in which Z is a water-soluble group, especially amino, R is a divalent group with at least 2 carbon atoms, particularly C
2
to C
20
, are used for the reoxidation of reductively obtained sulfhydryl groups. Preferred disulfides are cystamine disulfide and glutathione disulfide.
Disulfide-containing fixatives have the disadvantage that thiols, which have an unpleasant odor, are formed during the fixation step.
The use of dehydroascorbic acid for adjusting the pH of hair conditioning agents to an acidic value, is known from the Japanese publication 52-128 239. In aqueous solution, dehydroascorbic acid is unstable and decomposes within a few hours.
It is an object to avoid the disadvantages with respect to the bleaching effect, the formation of cysteic acid and the mercaptan odor, which occur during the permanent waving of hair, and to do this without affecting the structure of the hair.
Surprisingly, it was found that this objective can be accomplished in an outstanding manner in accordance with claim 1 by an agent for carrying out the subsequent oxidative treatment of hair, which has previously been treated reductively for permanent waving.
Preferably, the fixative is obtained by mixing 2 components immediately (10 seconds to 20 minutes) before use, component 1 containing dehydroascorbic acid, its derivatives or salts or their mixture, in an anhydrous form or with up to 10% by weight of water, as a powder, a granulate or tablet or microencapsulated or as a suspension and component 2 being an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous alcoholic preparation.
Aside from dehydroascorbic acid, especially its derivatives, such as dehydroisoascorbic acid, bis-dehydroascorbic acid, bis-dehydroisoascorbic acid as well as their salts, such as their alkali and alkaline earth salts, as well as mixtures thereof, are suitable as inventive agents. Especially preferred are dehydroascorbic acid or bis-dehydroascorbic acid or mixtures thereof.
The ready-for-use fixative preferably contains 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight and especially 1 to 5% by weight of dehydroascorbic acid or bis-dehydroascorbic acid or its derivatives or its salts or a mixture thereof.
It is especially preferred if the fixative contains 1 to 5% by weight of dehydroascorbic acid or bis-dehydroascorbic acid or mixtures thereof.
Optionally, the fixative may additionally contain conventional oxidizing agents, such as hydrogen peroxide, peroxide salts or bromates. If these are present in liquid form, they are contained in the liquid component.
The pH of the ready-for-use fixative ranges form 1.5 to 10 and preferably from 2 to 8, 2.5 to 7.5 being particularly preferred. The pH. is adjusted with conventional alkalizing materials and buffering materials, such as ammonia, alkali hydroxides, alkali carbonates, alkali hydrogen carbonates, citrate buffer, phosphoric acid and its salts, citrate acid and its salts and, in particular, ascorbic acid and its salts.
The ready-for-use fixative can be present in the form of an aqueous solution or of an emulsion as well as in thickened form on an aqueous basis, particularly as a cream, gel or paste. Preferably, the dehydroascorbic acid, its derivatives or salts or their mixture are used in aqueous or in aqueous alcoholic solution.
Aside from dehydroascorbic acid, it's derivatives or its salts or their mixture, the ready-for-use fixative may also contain additives, which are customary in cosmetic preparations for the hair (compare K. Schrader, Grundlagen und Rezepturen der Kosmetika (Cosmetic Fundamentals and Formulations) 2
nd
edition, Huthig-Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989). These include swelling and penetration materials, such as urea, 2-pyrrolidone, 1-methyl-2-pyrrolidone and dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, as well as peroxide stabilizers, such as aromatic sulfonic acids, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid, pyro- or polyphosphoric acids, acidic salts, strong acids, ascorbic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, benzoic acid, salicylic acid, citric acid, tannic acids, paraformaldehyde, 4-acetamido-phenol, phenol, thymol or alpha-bisabolol.
Furthermore, the fixative may contain wetting agents and emulsifiers from the group of anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric or zwitterionic surface active agents. Suitable agents are, in particular,
a) anionic surface active agents, such as alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium or alkanolamine salts of alkyl sulfonates, alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates, such as sodium lauryl alcohol diglycol ether sulfate, sodium or triethanolamine salts of alkyl sulfates with 12 to 18 and preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms, the sodium or triethanolamine salts of lauryl or tetradecyl ether sulfate, the disodium salt of the sulfosuccinic half ester of alkanolamides, soaps and polyether carboxylic acids;
b) nonionic surface active agents, such as ethoxylated fatty alcohols with 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as lauryl, tetradecyl, cetyl and stearyl alcohol, ethoxylated with up to 40 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol, alone or in a mixture, ethoxylated lanolin alcohols, ethoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated alkylphenols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units in the molecule, fatty acid alkanolamides as well as ethoxylated sorbitol fatty acid esters;
c) cationic surface active agents, such as dilauryldimethylammonium chloride, chlorides or bromides of alkyldimethylbenzylammonium salts, alkyltrimethylammonium salts such acetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromides, tetradecyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromides, alkyldi-methylhydroxyelhylammonium chlorides or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylpyridinium salts, such as lauryl- or cetylpyridinum chloride, alkylamidoethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, compounds with a cationic character, such as amine oxides, for example, alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides and
d) amphoteric or zvitterionic surface active agents, such as carboxyl derivatives of imidazols, N-alkylbetaines, N-alkylamidobetaines, N-alkylsulfobetaines, N-alkylamino-propionates, alkyldimethylcarboxymethylammonium salts with 12 to 18 carb
Dannecker Beate
Lauscher Dirk
Schreiber Birgit
Di Nola-Baron Liliana
Page Thurman K.
Striker Michael J.
Wella Aktiengesellschaft
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