Active compounds and cosmetic and dermatological formulations

Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Designated organic active ingredient containing – Having -c- – wherein x is chalcogen – bonded directly to...

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424 59, 424 60, 424400, 424401, 424404, 512 1, 512 2, 514400, 106436, A61K 31415, A61K 742, A61K 746, C09C 136

Patent

active

057234825

DESCRIPTION:

BRIEF SUMMARY
The present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological formulations. The invention particularly relates to active compounds and formulations which are used for prophylaxis and treatment of light-sensitive skin, in particular of photodermatoses.
The damaging effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is generally known. While rays having a wavelength of less than 290 nm (the so-called UVC range) are absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere, rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB range, cause erythema, simple sunburn or even actual burns of greater or lesser severity.
The narrower range around 308 nm is stated as the erythema activity maximum of sunlight.
Numerous compounds are known for protection against UVB radiation, these being derivatives of 3-benzylidenecamphor, of 4-aminobenzoic acid, of cinnamic acid, of salicylic acid, of benzophenone and also of 2-phenylbenzimidazole.
For the range between about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UVA range, it is also important to have available filter substances, since the rays thereof can cause reactions on light-sensitive skin. It has been proved that UVA radiation leads to damage to the elastic and collagenic fibers of connective tissue, which makes the skin age prematurely, and that it is to be regarded as a cause of numerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions. The damaging effect of UVB radiation can be intensified by UVA radiation.
Certain derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, the photostability of which derivatives (Int. J. Cosm. Science 10, 53 (1988)) is not adequate, are therefore used for protection against rays of the UVA range.
However, UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, the photochemical reaction products then intervening in skin metabolism and in the immune system and causing photodermatoses.
Such photochemical reaction products are chiefly free-radical compounds, for example hydroxy radicals. Undefined free-radical photoproducts which are formed in the skin itself can also show uncontrolled secondary reactions because of their high reactivity. However, singlet oxygen, a non-radical excited state of the oxygen molecule, may occur under UV irradiation, as can short-lived epoxides and many others. Singlet oxygen, for example, is distinguished from the triplet oxygen normally present (free-radical ground state) by an increased reactivity. Nevertheless, excited, reactive (free-radical) triplet states of the oxygen molecule also exist.
UV radiation is furthermore counted among ionizing radiation. There is therefore the risk of ionic species also being formed during UV exposure, which then in turn are capable of intervening oxidatively in biochemical processes.
It is assumed that photoinduced processes in the end lead to allergic reactions in the skin, which manifest themselves phenotypically as so-called polymorphic photodermatoses.
To prevent these reactions, antioxidants and/or agents which trap free radicals can additionally be incorporated into the cosmetic or dermatological formulations.
It has already been proposed to employ vitamin E, a substance of known antioxidative action, in light protection formulations, although here too the effect achieved falls far short of that hoped for.
It is also known to employ trans-urocanic acid (also called trans-urocaninic acid, E-urocaninic acid, E-urocanic acid, trans-(4-imidazolyl) acrylic acid or E-4-imidazolylacrylic acid) as a UV filter. However, the present invention does not relate to this use.
Examples are to be found in Japanese laid-open specifications JP-Kokai-Sho-54/027562, JP-Kokai-Sho-63/051318 and JP-Kokai-Sho-56/063965, and in the associated examined specifications.
It was therefore surprising and unforeseeable to the expert that cosmetic and dermatological formulations, in particular topical formulations, having an active content of carnosine or derivatives or analogues thereof or of the combination of the active compounds a) carnosine or derivatives or analogues thereof and b) urocanic acid or derivatives or an

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