Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Live hair or scalp treating compositions – Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant containing
Patent
1994-08-19
1997-07-15
Gardner, Sallie M.
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Live hair or scalp treating compositions
Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant containing
424 709, A61K 709, A61K 792
Patent
active
056480695
DESCRIPTION:
BRIEF SUMMARY
Use of 4-[(2-oxo-3-bornylidene)methyl]phenyltrimethylammonium methyl sulfate in a permanent hair shaping composition for protection against the ravages of the weather and in particular against light.
The subject of the present invention is the use of 4-[(2-oxo-3-bornylidene)methyl]phenyltrimethylammonium methyl sulfate in a permanent hair shaping composition as an agent for protecting the keratin of hair against the ravages of the weather, and in particular against light, and a process for protecting the mechanical properties of hair subjected to the successive action of a permanent hair shaping treatment and the ravages of the weather, in particular light, using this compound.
It has long been known that light attacks hair keratin. Numerous publications disclose that natural light destroys certain amino acids in hair and that by damaging the hair fiber it degrades its mechanical properties; degradation of the mechanical properties is principally understood to mean the decrease of the 15% extension stage.
The 15% extension stage is the weight which must be applied to a wet hair of a given length in order to lengthen it by 15%. The heavier the weight, the stronger and more elastic is the hair.
In order to combat the attack of hair by light, it has already been proposed to use substances which are capable of filtering light radiation.
As agents for protecting the mechanical properties of hair and essentially of the wet 15% extension stage, the Applicant has previously proposed, in Patent Application EP 329,032 and French Patent Application 2,627,085, screening agents such as 4-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl)benzenesulfonic acid or salts thereof and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid or salts thereof.
These compounds have in particular been recommended for application before or after shampooing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent waving or straightening of the hair.
It is moreover known to use substantive screening substances such as particular quaternary ammonium salts of carboxylic acids described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,680,144, with the aim of preventing the fading of the artificial color of the hair by light. The said substances have been recommended in the form of shampoos or sprays to be applied after dyeing.
Patent FR 2,509,989 cites water-soluble sunscreen agents which may be used in the aqueous phase of a cosmetic composition for protecting the skin and hair against UV radiation, this composition comprising a distinct oily phase. No indication as to the type of hair protected or to the mechanical properties of the hair is made therein.
In the prior art, no screening substance has, therefore, yet been recommended for use in a permanent hair shaping composition with the aim of protecting the mechanical properties of permanent waved hair, and in particular its elasticity, from light.
Now, it is well known that the maximum degradation of the mechanical properties, and in particular of the elasticity, is observed in the case of hair subjected to a permanent shaping operation and then subsequently attacked by light. This is related to increased embrittlement of the hair by the cumulative action of the reducing agent and of the fixative.
In this specific case, no screening substance has yet proved sufficiently effective at protecting hair subjected to a permanent shaping operation and to the successive action of light.
The Applicant has now surprisingly discovered that 4-[(2-oxo-3-bornylidene)methyl]phenyltrimethylammonium methyl sulfate was able effectively to protect the mechanical properties of hair subjected to a permanent shaping operation, in particular its elasticity, against degradation by the ravages of the weather, and in particular light, when the abovementioned active compound is introduced in aqueous solution either into the reducing phase or into the oxidizing, so-called fixing, phase or by intrapermanent application, that is to say between the two steps of reduction and fixing.
This property was able to be demonstrated by exposure under natural light (sunny environment) and under artificial li
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patent: 3988110 (1976-10-01), Zviak
patent: 4061730 (1977-12-01), Kalopissis et al.
patent: 4323599 (1982-04-01), Bouillon
patent: 4656029 (1987-04-01), Grollier
patent: 5004594 (1991-04-01), Richard
patent: 5102660 (1992-04-01), Forestier
Zviak The Science of Hair Care, 1986 pp.115-116 117.
de Labbey Arnaud
N'guyen Ly Lan
"L'Oreal"
Gardner Sallie M.
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