Data processing: generic control systems or specific application – Specific application – apparatus or process – Product assembly or manufacturing
Reexamination Certificate
2000-09-11
2002-10-29
Nerbun, Peter (Department: 3765)
Data processing: generic control systems or specific application
Specific application, apparatus or process
Product assembly or manufacturing
C700S136000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06473671
ABSTRACT:
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
(1) Field of the Invention
The present invention relates generally to a computer-aided design and manufacturing and, more particularly, to an apparatus for automation of custom garments for a specific individual's needs.
(2) Description of the Prior Art
Computer automation has played an important role in the apparel industry. For example, it makes mass customization possible in a quick-turn environment. Body scanning is a major component of the automation, which has been studied over the past several years and has met with some success. Body scanning can produce useful information for developing CAD functionality in product development and preproduction, from design conceptualization to marker making.
One of the important applications of body scanning is measurement extraction. Compared to traditional tape measures, measurement extraction provides measurements that are more accurate in a much more efficient way. In addition to obtaining body measurements accurately and efficiently, one also needs to master short-cycle with flexible manufacturing, and provide virtual try-on and digital printing capabilities. Digital printing allows manufacturers to print fabric for individual garments.
These elements of mass customization make it difficult for any attempt to automate the garment designing process. A number of companies in the apparel supply chain have tackled this problem with limited success. Several mass customizing models are currently in use. For example, Brooks Brothers developed an integrated information system, called e-Measure, to allow customers to create and visualize 25 different made-to-measure suit silhouettes in 300 to 500 fabrics. For each new suit order, the body measurements, including the chest, waist and over arm, are taken and entered into the e-Measure system. Only a fixed set of patterns stored in the system can be applied to an individual, although certain standardized alterations are available. A drawback of this system is that it does not match patterns to body scanning. The limited measurements obtained are not sufficient to represent customers'unique size information. As a consequence, more alterations may be needed after the garment is made.
Eastman Machine Co. offered a system using a body scanning technology through a partnership with TELMAT and ScanVec Garment Systems. It created a 3-D image of an individual's body shape from 70 different measurements. It then used the measurement information to modify a pattern and create a cut file that is sent directly to the cutter. A drawback of this system is that it does not provide any 3-D catalog of styles and fabrics for customers'choices.
Gerber Technology Inc. offers the APDS-3D pattern visualization software on its AccuMark systems. APDS-3D is a virtual draping and sampling program that can transfer a 2-D flat pattern to a 3-D virtual dress form. It is now used merely as a visual tool. If the dress form can be created from actual customer body measurements, it is possible for the system to be further developed as a tool to test fitting results. In addition, the design is limited to close fitting styles.
Currently there are two ways of generating slopers. First, patternmakers draft on hard paper and later enter the block (i.e. sloper) using a digitizer that converts the hard pattern into a computerized format. Second, patterinmakers can use a pattern design system (PDS) to draft the sloper on the computer. The problem with both methods is that drafting is very time consuming, therefore only a few slopers are made for standard size target customers.
Patternmakers now make changes in the pattern or sloper through CAD software on-screen using standard flat patternmaking techniques, including dart manipulations, add fullness, etc. This is also very time consuming. In addition, the fitting result cannot be seen until the patterns are cut and sewn into prototype garments, which would be tried on a real model. Finally, the process of making a prototype garment is expensive and time consuming, too.
Thus, there remains a need for a new and improved apparatus and method for automation of custom garments for a specific individual's needs, which creates a virtual prototype model of the garment using a 3-D library database with sloper information created from formulas of generating different slopers thereby allowing the designer to generate the sloper automatically, and where the pattern style information (i.e. pattern generating process) is used to generate the pattern database for a customer's individual body measurements.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention is directed to a computer-aided design and automation of mass customization. The system includes a 3-D body model and a virtual prototype model. The virtual prototype model includes a close fitting defintion a 3-D library loose fitting definition and texture mapping linked to the close fitting definition and the 3-D library loose fitting definition.
The present invention may further include a 2-D spreader model for subsequent manufacturing. The 2-D spreader model may further include a sloper generator, a pattern generator, and a grading generator. The grading generator may further include a sizing system. The grading generator may be manual entry or include an automatic grading database. A marker maker may be added for subsequent cutting and sewing.
The 3-D body model may be a conventional dress form or a virtual dress form. The virtual dress form may be computer generated from a statistical database. The 3-D body model may also be a true body dress form created by a body scanner.
In the preferred embodiment, the close fitting definition further includes a 3-D close fitting definition library. Also, in the preferred embodiment, the 3-D library loose fitting definitionis created by a 2-D to 3-D converter. The 2-D to 3-D converter may further include a 2-D pattern converter. The 2-D pattern converter includes a 2-D sloper database and a pattern database, which may be created using the book
Patternmaking for Fashion Design,
by Helen J. Armstrong, as a reference.
In the preferred embodiment, the 3-D library loose fitting definition is a computer model generated wire grid or a picture database including a picture converter and a 3-D draping database. In the preferred embodiment, the 3-D draping database can be created using the book
Draping for Apparel Design,
also by Helen J. Armstrong, as a reference. Both books are hereby incorporated by reference in their entirety. In the preferred embodiment, the linked texture mapping is a textile design database, which may be created from a fabric swatch or by textile design.
Accordingly, one aspect of the present invention is to provide a system for a computer-aided design and automation of mass customization. The system includes a 3-D body model, and a virtual prototype model, the virtual prototype model including a close fitting definition and a 3-D library loose fitting definition.
Another aspect of the present invention is to provide a virtual prototype model for a system for 3-D computer-aided design and automation of mass customization. The virtual prototype model includes: a close fitting definition, a 3-D library loose fitting definition, and texture mapping linked to the close fitting definition and the 3-D library loose fitting definition.
Still another aspect of the present invention is to provide a system for a computer-aided design and automation of mass customization. The system includes: a 3-D body model, and a virtual prototype model, the virtual prototype model including a close fitting definition; a 3-D library loose fitting definition and texture mapping linked to the close fitting definitions and the 3-D library loose fitting definition; and a 2-D spreader model.
These and other aspects of the present invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art after a reading of the following description of the preferred embodiment when considered with the drawings.
REFERENCES:
patent: 5930769 (1999-07-01), Rose
patent: 5956525 (
Nerbun Peter
Smith Moore LLP
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