Toilet – Methods – Hair treatment by application of specific chemical composition
Patent
1997-02-18
2000-09-12
Manahan, Todd E.
Toilet
Methods
Hair treatment by application of specific chemical composition
132206, A45D 706
Patent
active
061162507
DESCRIPTION:
BRIEF SUMMARY
The customary method for performing permanent hair shaping is based on two treatment steps: In the first step the cystine-disulfide-bridges of the hair keratin are unlocked by working in a preparation which contains and active reducing substance (shaping composition). Then the hair is shaped as desired. In a second step, cystine-disulfide-compounds are closed again by the use of a neutralizer, i.e. of a preparation containing oxidizing active substances.
From published European patent application 0 671 158 a process for permanent shaping of keratin materials is known, in which a permanent shaping composition on the basis of a hair keratin reducing substance is applied to the rolled hair, the treated keratin material is possibly given a heat treatment, the keratin material treated this way is rinsed out, the rinsed keratin material is left to rest and finally the rollers are removed. A neutralizer is not employed.
The wave resulting from this process is not satisfying because the hair still contains remainders of the reduction solution--which can lead to hair damage--and the resulting curl due to the missing oxidative re-bonding process is not sufficiently durable. A teaching in how a durable wave with big curls over the hair length can be evenly maintained is also not provided in this publication.
As the pioneering work in the German patent applications 948 186 and 972 424 shows, thioglycolic acid is used for example, as ammonium or monoethanol amino salt, as classical permanent reduction solution. Other common active reducing substances are inorganic sulfides, 2-mercapto propionic acid (thiolactic acid); 3-mercapto propionic acid, certain mercapto carboxylic acid esters, cysteine and derivatives of these compounds.
Both treatment steps as commonly practiced, i.e. the unlocking and the reconstruction of the cystine disulfide compounds, take place while the hair is on rollers. After the second step, the neutralizing step, the hair at first will show a tight curl in accordance with the size of the rollers. As a rule, such a tight curl is not desired, so that the result of the shaping process immediately has to be corrected again. Although the curl is satisfactory at the hairline in accordance with the process of the prior art, a friz results in the area of the middle shaft and at the hair ends. Therefore, a so-called "finger-wave treatment" employing hair rolling techniques and setting lotion resins for the creation of large, natural curls is necessary after each normal perm and each time the permed hair becomes moist. A lasting curl, in accordance with naturally wavy Central-European hair, cannot be achieved by means of the currently known perm processes. It is, however, the actual goal of the female and male clients requesting a perm treatment.
It is therefore the object to make a process of permanent hair shaping available, in which the disadvantages will be avoided and where moisture-resistant, simple, lasting, reliable and even permanent re-shaping of the hair into a final hairstyle without too tight a curl can be achieved. At the same time it should be possible, to be able to create or correct the desired size of the curl without pressure of time.
Therefore, the subject of the present invention as presented, is a process of permanent hair shaping, characterized in that: substance is applied to the rolled hair, minutes, agent,
Preferably, the hair is washed with a commonly used shampoo prior to rolling it onto the rollers. Rinsing in accordance with treatment step h) preferably takes place with water, if necessary with the use of a shampoo.
In a particularly preferred embodiment of the process in accordance with the invention, the washed hair which has been preferably towel-dried, is treated with a balancing pre-wrap solution prior to rolling it onto the rollers. The balancing pre-wrap solution either is made from an active substance or contains an active substance which can be stored particularly in the damaged parts of the hair and thus reduces the action of the permanent shaping composition. This act
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Manahan Todd #E.
Striker Michael J.
Wella Aktiengesellschaft
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