Cosmetic use of at least one polyorganosiloxane as a gelling...

Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Preparations characterized by special physical form – Cosmetic – antiperspirant – dentifrice

Reexamination Certificate

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C424S059000, C424S063000, C424S054000, C424S065000, C424S070100, C424S070700, C424S070120, C424S400000

Reexamination Certificate

active

06814973

ABSTRACT:

The present invention relates to the cosmetic use, as a gelling agent, of at least one linear or cyclic polyorganosiloxane which comprises at least two organosiloxy units and at least two side and/or end groups each capable of forming at least one hydrogen bond with one or more partner groups. The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one such polyorganosiloxane in a cosmetically acceptable medium.
In cosmetics, it is desired to obtain compositions which, when applied to the skin, including the skin of the eyelids, and also the lips and superficial body growths, form deposits, for example film-forming deposits, which have one or more desired special cosmetic and/or care effects.
Thus, for make-up compositions such as lipsticks, mascaras and eyeliners, efforts are made to obtain compositions which form deposits with suitable colouring and/or gloss effects. For compositions including an active care agent such as moisturizing products, deodorants and antiperspirants, efforts are made in particular to obtain the optimal effect of the active care agent present in the composition.
In all cases, efforts are also made to obtain the longest possible duration of the cosmetic and/or care effect(s). For example, for lipsticks, mascaras and eyeliners, it is important to obtain sustained staying power of the colouring effect and/or gloss; for foundations, powders, blushers, eyeshadows and body make-up, it is important to obtain a matt effect which is persistent and durable despite friction or the secretion of sebum or sweat; and for compositions including an active care agent, it is important to obtain the longest possible activity of the active agent.
It has been proposed to incorporate silicone oils into cosmetic compositions. The incorporation of these silicone oils into compositions gives deposits properties of hydrophobicity, gloss and a non-greasy feel, but the deposits obtained show poor resistance to external agents such as sweat or sebum, and in particular to mechanical attack such as friction.
Polysiloxanes comprising amide units and possibly comprising groups capable of establishing hydrogen bonds, which are used as gelling agents for silicone oils in cosmetic compositions, are disclosed in patent WO 99/06473 from Colgate-Palmolive. Compositions that are generally solid, transparent or translucent are thus obtained.
U.S. Pat. No. 5,919,441 from Colgate-Palmolive discloses a cosmetic composition based on a fluid component comprising at least one volatile or non-volatile silicone and at least one gelling agent. This gelling agent is a polymer containing both organosiloxy units and groups forming hydrogen bonds which are chosen from ester, urethane, urea, thiourea and amide groups and combinations thereof. The use of such a gelling agent leads, in particular, to solid compositions, that are preferably transparent or translucent.
According to the invention, it has been found that the use of at least one specific polyorganosiloxane, which is different from those disclosed in the patents mentioned above, makes it possible to obtain the gelation of a cosmetically acceptable medium and results in a possible removal of the usual gelling agents.
These specific linear or cyclic polyorganosiloxanes comprise at least two organosiloxy units and at least two side and/or end groups each capable of forming at least one hydrogen bond with one or more partner groups. They have already been disclosed in patent FR 2 708 272 from Rhône-Poulenc as adhesives. However, they have never been used in cosmetics.
The term <<partner group>> means any side and/or end group borne by another molecule of the said polyorganosiloxane, which is capable of forming at least one hydrogen bond with the side and/or end group of the said polyorganosiloxane. This partner group may or may not be identical to the side and/or end group with which it forms at least one hydrogen bond.
The expression <<cosmetically acceptable medium>> means a medium which is compatible with any keratin material such as the skin, the nails, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the lips and any other area of body or facial skin, and which also has a pleasant odour, appearance and feel.
One subject of the present invention is thus the cosmetic use as a gelling agent of at least one specific polyorganosiloxane as described below.
Another subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one specific polyorganosiloxane as described below.
Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the various examples which follow.
One subject of the invention relates to the use in cosmetics, as a gelling agent, of at least one linear or cyclic polyorganosiloxane which comprises at least two organosiloxy units and at least two side and/or end groups each capable of forming at least one, preferably at least two hydrogen bonds with one or more partner groups.
The polyorganosiloxanes that are suitable in the invention comprise at least two organosiloxy units which may be represented especially by the following formula:
R
a
R′
b
SiO
(4−a−b)/2
  (I)
in which:
R represents a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl group, an aryl group, a polyether group or a fluoro group,
R′ represents a group capable of forming at least one hydrogen bond, preferably at least two hydrogen bonds,
a is 1, 2 or 3, and
b is 0 or 1, with the proviso that a+b is equal to 2 or 3.
The number of the said organosiloxy units preferably ranges from 2 to 50,000 and better still from 2 to 30,000.
The alkyl groups may be linear, branched or cyclic, and chosen especially from methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, cyclopentyl and cyclohexyl groups and other similar groups. The methyl group is particularly preferred.
Among the aryl groups, the phenyl group is preferred.
Examples of polyether groups which may be mentioned are polyoxyethylene, polyoxypropylene and polyoxyethylene/polyoxypropylene groups.
The fluoro groups may be linear, branched or cyclic alkyl groups, or alkenyl groups, which bear one or more fluorine atoms as substituents.
The groups R′ are side and/or end groups capable of forming hydrogen bonds and are preferably chosen from:
(a) groups derived from unprotected or partially protected amino acids, and
(b) carboxylic acid, amine or phenol groups of formula:
—X—(Y)
n
—Z
in which:
X represents a linear, branched or cyclic spacer chain, of alkylene or alkenylene type, optionally comprising one or more hetero atoms in the chain,
Y represents a monocyclic or polycyclic divalent unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group or a divalent unsaturated heterocyclic group, these polycyclic or heterocyclic groups possibly comprising up to 4 fused rings,
n represents an integer ranging from 1 to 4, and
Z represents a —COOH or —OH group or a primary, secondary or tertiary amine group, the nitrogen atom of which optionally forms part of a heterocyclic group Y.
As is well known in the art, a carboxylic acid group may form hydrogen bonds with another carboxylic acid group or an amine group, while an amine group may form hydrogen bonds with a carboxylic acid group or a phenolic —OH group.
Thus, it is possible in the composition of the invention to use a single polyorganosiloxane containing at least two end and/or side groups, at least one of which is a —COOH group and at least one other of which is a —COOH or amine (primary, secondary or tertiary) group, or alternatively a single polyorganosiloxane containing at least two end and/or side groups, at least one of which is an amine (primary, secondary or tertiary) group and at least one other of which is a phenolic —OH or —COOH group.
Mixtures, preferably equimolar mixtures, of two polyorganosiloxanes comprising partner groups may also be used. Thus, a mixture of a polyorganosiloxane containing at least two —COOH groups with a polyorganosiloxane containing at least two amine groups, or a mixture

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