Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Plant material or plant extract of undetermined constitution... – Containing or obtained from compositeae
Reexamination Certificate
2001-11-13
2004-04-27
Padmanabhan, Sreeni (Department: 1617)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Plant material or plant extract of undetermined constitution...
Containing or obtained from compositeae
C424S725000, C424S774000, C424S410000, C514S880000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06726940
ABSTRACT:
The invention relates to the use of at least one extract of at least one plant of the genus Chrysanthemum in a composition for assisting skin and/or hair pigmentation.
The color of the human hair and skin is a function of different factors and especially of the seasons of the year, the race, the sex and the age. It is principally determined by the concentration in the keratinocytes of the melanin produced by the melanocytes. The melanocytes are the specialized cells which synthesize melanin through particular organelles, the melanosomes.
The synthesis of melanin or melanogenesis is particularly complex and schematically involves the following principal steps:
tyrosine→dopa→dopaquinone→dopachrome→melanin
Tyrosinase (monophenol dihydroxyl phenylalanine: oxygen oxidoreductase/EC 1,14,18,1) is the essential enzyme intervening in this sequence of reactions. It especially catalyses the conversion reaction of tyrosine into dopa (dihydroxyphenylalanine) and the conversion reaction of dopa into dopaquinone.
In the epidermis, the melanocyte is involved in the epidermal melanin unit which contains a melanocyte surrounded by approximately 36 neighbouring keratinocytes. All individuals, without distinction of phototype, have approximately the same number of melanocytes for a given cutaneous zone. The ethnic differences, in terms of pigmentation, are not due to the number of melanocytes, but to the properties of their melanosomes. The melanosomes are aggregated into complexes and are of small size. These are highly specialized organelles whose unique function is the production of melanin. They originate from the endoplasmic reticulum in the form of spherical vacuoles called premelanosomes. The premelanosomes contain an amorphous protein substrate, but no melanogenic enzymes. In the course of maturation of the premelanosome, the amorphous substrate organizes into a fibrillar structure orientated in the longitudinal axis of the melanosome. Four stages of development of the melanosome are distinguished corresponding to the intensity of melanization. Melanin is deposited uniformly on the internal fibrillar network of the melanosome and the opacity of the organelle increases up to saturation. As the melanin is synthesized in the melanosomes, these move from the perinuclear region towards the end of the dendrites of the melanocytes. By phagocytosis, the end of the dendrites is captured by the keratinocytes, the membranes are degraded and the melanosomes are redistributed in the keratinocytes.
Although the level of melanin varies from one population to another, the quantity of tyrosinase does not vary significantly and the level of messenger RNAs of the tyrosinase is identical in white or black skins. The variations in melanogenesis are therefore due to variations either in the activity of the tyrosinase or in the capacity of the keratinocytes to phagocytose the melanosomes.
It is known that in the majority of populations the brown color of the skin and the preservation of a constant coloration of the hair are important aspirations.
In addition, pigmentation diseases exist such as, for example, vitiligo, which is an auto-immune disease which is characterized by the appearance of white patches on the skin linked to a pigmentation defect.
There is therefore a real need for a product facilitating and/or improving the pigmentation of the skin and/or the hair.
Numerous solutions have been proposed in the field of artificial coloration by supply of sensible exogenous colorants to give to the skin and/or the hair a coloration which is the closest possible to that which is naturally or, in the field of natural coloration, by stimulation of the natural routes of pigmentation.
For example, in the documents WO-A-9517161, WO-A-9511003, WO-A-9501773, WO-A-9404674, WO-A-9404122, EP-A-585018, WO-A-9310804, WO-A-9220322 or WO-A-9107945 solutions have been proposed which are as varied as compositions containing a phosphodiesterase inhibitor, the use of prostaglandins, DNA fragments or even tyrosine derivatives.
Excellent results are admittedly obtained by the solutions proposed in the prior art, but the compounds used often have non-negligible side effects or are complex mixtures which do not have any specificity.
The discovery of substances having an effect on pigmentation of the skin and/or the hair without having inconvenient side effects remains a major research objective.
The applicant has now discovered that at least one extract of at least one plant of the genus Chrysanthemum has an activatory effect on melanogenesis.
The plants of the genus Chrysanthemum are used in the prior art in compositions having depigmenting properties (JP07025745, JP07025746), compositions favouring the growth of the hair and/or combating hair loss (FR2659014, EP569667, DE4330597, DE4312109, JP8081336, JP84154598, JP02048514), anti-dandruff compositions (KR9006824, JP62153211) or compositions for maintaining the suppleness, the hydration and the sheen of the skin (JP62048611). The patent applications CN1094278 and CN1094279 relate to compositions for natural hair treatment. These compositions have a variety of properties (embellishment of the hair, fixing, promotion of the blood circulation and the growth of the hair, bactericidal, anti-pruritic, anti-dandruff) among which an anti-white-hair action is mentioned. These compositions are in fact a mixture of 2 components each formed of extracts of at least 9 plants, without it being possible to attribute one of the numerous properties cited to one more than another.
To the knowledge of the applicant, use as an active principle of a plant extract of the genus Chrysanthemum has never been claimed for assisting the pigmentation of the skin and/or the hair.
The invention therefore relates to the use in a cosmetic composition or for the preparation of a pharmaceutical composition, as active principle, of a sufficient quantity of at least one extract of at least one plant of the genus Chrysanthemum, this extract or the composition being intended to increase the pigmentation of the skin and/or of the hair.
The invention likewise relates to the use in a cosmetic composition or for the preparation of a pharmaceutical composition, as active principle, of a sufficient quantity of at least one extract of at least one plant of the genus Chrysanthemum for assisting melanogenesis.
The extract of at least one plant of the genus Chrysanthemum can be any extract prepared from any plant material originating from a plant of the genus Chrysanthemum.
The composition can contain at least one extract of at least one plant of the genus Chrysanthemum obtained from material originating from a plant cultivated in vivo or originating from in vitro culture.
In vivo cultivation is understood as meaning any cultivation of conventional type, that is to say in soil in the open air or in a greenhouse, or alternatively outside the soil.
It is thus possible to use, for example, according to the invention an extract of different parts of the plant, leaves, flowers, stems, roots, undifferentiated cells, alone or as a mixture, whether the plant is cultivated in vivo or in vitro.
The selection pressure imposed by the physicochemical conditions during the growth of the plant cells in vitro allows a plant material to be obtained which is standardized and available throughout the year unlike the plant cultivated in vivo.
In vitro culture is understood as meaning all of the techniques known to the person skilled in the art which artificially allow the obtainment of a plant or of a part of a plant.
Preferably, an extract obtained from plant material cultivated in vivo is used and even more preferentially an extract obtained from leaves of plants of the genus Chrysanthemum cultivated in vivo.
The genus Chrysanthemum belongs to the family of Compositae which itself belongs to the order of Asteracae (or Asterales).
The genus Chrysanthemum contains approximately 200 species native to Europe and Asia, amongst which it is possible to mention
Chrysanthemum hortorum, Chrysanthemum morifolium, Chrysanthemum coronariu
Belcour-Castro Beatrice
Martin Richard
Burns Doane Swecker & Mathis L.L.P.
Padmanabhan Sreeni
Societe L'Oreal S.A.
Yu Gina C.
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