Process for the preparation of stable aqueous hair dyeing...

Details Process for the preparation of stable aqueous hair dyeing... Process for the preparation of stable aqueous hair dyeing...

1999-09-27

2003-03-04

Dodson, Shelley A. (Department: 1616)

Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions

Live hair or scalp treating compositions

C424S070600, C424S401000, C008S404000, C008S405000, C008S406000

Reexamination Certificate

active

06528045

ABSTRACT:

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention concerns an improved process for the preparation of stable, aqueous hair dyeing emulsions.
Compositions for the permanent dyeing of human hair, customarily comprising an oxidation dyestuff precursor, namely a developing-coupling system, are customarily used in the form of aqueous emulsions (see K. Schrader, “Grundlagen und Rezepturen der Kosmetika”, 2nd. Ed. (1989), pp. 797 ff.).
Their preparation is carried out by hot emulsification of the components and subsequent cooling, which naturally needs energy and time, and does not always lead to stable emulsions.
There was therefore a need to optimize the currently applied manufacturing process.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
It has now been found that a stable, aqueous hair dyeing emulsion comprising at least one oxidation hair dyestuff precursor with good rheological properties can be obtained, while simultaneously substantially reducing the manufacturing time and respective energy consumption, by mixing a water-in-oil emulsion, comprising 10% to 50% by weight, of at least one nonionic emulsifier, 10% to 50% by weight of at least one nonionic co-emulsifier selected from the group C
10
-C
22
-fatty alcohols. C
12
-C
18
-fatty acid mono- and -dialkanolamides and/or C
10
-C
22
-fatty acid esters with polyvalent alcohols, 5% to 40% by weight of oleic acid and up to 25%, in particular 20% by weight of water, each calculated to the total w/o-emulsion composition, with an aqueous phase comprising at least one water-soluble surfactant. Mixing is carried out under shear force at 15° to 30° C., preferably at room temperature at about 20 to 25° C.
The final product thus achieved preferably has a viscosity between 5,000 and 30,000, in particular 7,500 and 25,000, especially preferred about 10,000 to 20,000 mPa·s, measured at 20° C. in a Brookfield Viscosimeter RVT.
The proportion of the oil phase in the total emulsion preferably is between about 5% to about 40%, preferably 10% to 30% by weight, calculated to the total emulsion.
The water-in-oil emulsion may also contain about 0% to 20% by weight of an oil.
Preferred oily components in the oil phase are customary cosmetic oils and fats, for example, natural oils such as avocado oil, coconut oil, palm oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, whale oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, peach kernel oil, wheat germ oil, macadamia nut oil, night primrose oil, jojoba oil, castor oil, or olive oil, soya oil, lanolin and the derivatives thereof, as well as mineral oils such as paraffin oil and petrolatum. Synthetic oils and waxes are, for example, silicone oils, polyethylene glycols, etc. Further suitable hydrophobic components are in particular fatty acid esters such as isopropyl myristate, palmitate, stearate and isostearate, oleyl oleate, isocetyl stearate, hexyl laurate, dibutyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, myristyl myristate, oleyl erucate, cetyl palmitate, polyethyleneglycol and polyglyceryl fatty acid esters such as PEG-7-glyceryl cocoate, etc.
Suitable nonionic emulsifiers are in particular the various C
10
-C
22
-fatty alcohol ethoxylates, such as lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, oleyl, tridecyl, isotridecyl, coco fatty and tallow fatty alcohol ethoxylates, etc.; however, further nonionic oil-soluble emulsifiers known per se may also be used. The average number of ethylenexide molecules per molecule of fatty alcohols is between about 2 and 15, preferably about 4 to 10.
Further suitable nonionic emulsifiers are C
8
-C
18
-alkyl polyglucosides with a condensation degree of preferably 1.1 to 3, in particular 1.2 to 2.5, which have been known per se for some time. Also suited for this purpose are further nonionic surfactants, for example amineoxides such as lauryl dimethyl amineoxide, e.g. of the type “Ammonyx
R
”, “Aromax
R
” or “Genaminox
R
”.
Suitable nonionic emulsifiers for w/o-emulsions, the quantity of which preferably ranges between about 15% to 40%, in particular about 20% to 35% by weight, calculated to the w/o-emulsion, are principally known as state of the art, for example, from the standard monography of K. Schrader, “Grundlagen und Rezepturen der Kosmetika”, 2nd Ed., pp. 387-525 (1989).
The co-emulsifier, used according to the invention in amounts from 10% to 50%, preferably about 15% to 45%, in particular about 20% to 40% by weight, calculated to the w/o emulsion, and also exerting a thickening and consistency-regulating effect, is selected from the group of C
8
-C
22
-fatty alcohols, C
12
-C
18
-fatty acid monoalkanolamides and/or C
10
-C
22
-fatty acid esters of polyvalent alcohols. Of these fatty alcohols, especially preferred are coco fatty alcohol, lauryl alcohol, decyl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. Preferred C
12
-C
18
-fatty acid alkanolamides are Cocamide MEA, Cocamide DEA, Cocamide MIPA, Lauramide MEA, Lauramide DEA, Oleamide MEA, Oleamide DEA, Stearamide MEA, Stearamide DEA and Stearamide MIPA. Suitable C
10
-C
22
-fatty acid esters of polyvalent alcohols are in particular the ethyleneglycol, propyleneglycol, polyethyleneglycol, glycerol and sorbitan esters of lauric acid, coco fatty acid, myristic acid or stearic acid and mixed esters thereof, such as, for example, polyethyieneglycol (PEG-)-glyceryl fatty acid esters. These components are also known and described in Schrader, 1.c.
As essential component, the w/o emulsion finally comprises oleic acid, preferably in an amount from 5% to 40%, preferably about 10% to 30%, in particular about 15% to 25% by weight, calculated to the total emulsion.
An additional preferred component in the w/o emulsions is oleyl alcohol, preferably in an amount from about 5% to 15% by weight, either as additional component or also as fatty alcohol-component of the co-emulsifier. This component particularly improves the aesthetic appearance of the final emulsion.
The water content in the water-in-oil emulsion is at most 20% by weight thereof.
The w/o emulsion is preferably prepared by melting the fatty-phase components at about 50° to 80° C., addition of water and cooling down to about 15° to 30° C. while stirring intensively.
Water-soluble surfactants used in the water phase and incorporated into the final product by mixing the w/o emulsion with the water phase to prepare the oil-in-water emulsion are anionic, arnphoteric or zwitterionic and/or cationic, as well as, optionally, specific nonionic surfactants. These are present in amounts from about 0.25% to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.4% to 2.5% by weight, calculated to the total composition of the ready-to-use oil-in-water emulsion.
Suitable anionic surfactants are those of the sulfate, sulfonate, carboxylate and alkyl phosphate type, especially, of course, those customarily used in hair treatment compositions, in particular, the known C
10
-C
18
-alkyl sulfates, and the respective ether sulfates, for example, C
12
-C
14
-alkyl ether sulfate, lauryl ether sulfate, especially with 1 to 4 ethylene oxide groups in the molecule, acyl aminocarboxylic acids, such as lauroyl sarcosinate and glutamate, furthermore monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide sulfates obtained by ethoxylation and subsequent sulfatation of fatty acid alkanolamides, and the alkali salts thereof, as well as the salts of long-chain mono- and dialkyl phosphates constituting mild, skin-compatible detergents.
Additional anionic surfactants useful within the scope of the invention are &agr;-olefin sulfonates or the salts thereof, and alkali salts of sulfosuccinic acid semiesters, for example, the disodium salt of monooctyl sulfosuccinate and alkali salts of long-chain monoalkyl ethoxy sulfosuccinates. Suitable surfactants of the carboxylate type are alkyl polyether carboxylic acids and the salts thereof of the formula
R—(C
2
H
4
O)
n
—O—CH
2
COOX,
wherein R is a C
8
-C
20
-alkyl group, preferably a C
12
-C
14
-alkyl group, n is a number from 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 17, and X is H or preferably a cation of the group sodium, potassium, magnesium and ammonium, which can optionally be hydroxyalkyl-substituted, as well

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