Solid cosmetic composition and uses

Details Solid cosmetic composition and uses Solid cosmetic composition and uses

1997-08-26

2002-01-29

Page, Thurman K. (Department: 1615)

Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions

Preparations characterized by special physical form

Cosmetic, antiperspirant, dentifrice

C424S070100, C424S070900, C424S070210, C424S070220, C424S070240, C424S070270, C424S070280, C424S074000, C424S063000

Reexamination Certificate

active

06342235

ABSTRACT:

The present invention relates to solid nondetergent cosmetic compositions which are nonadhesive and which have a good water absorption capacity and to their use in cosmetics.
In the cosmetics industry various forms of products are known in the form of a solid, especially in the field of makeup, like sticks of lip rouge, of foundation or of eye shadow; in the field of skin or lip care such as lip repair pencils and depigmenting or hydrating sticks; in the field of hygiene, like deodorant sticks.
These compositions have some disadvantages. As the active substances are delivered directly from the solid composition, these various compositions must be presented in a hermetic packaging in order not to dry out in air or in order not to stain. Many solid compositions are formulated based on waxes; they have a greasy character which is not appreciated by the users.
Furthermore, some compositions such as hair-dressing products are generally presented in fluid form such as gels or mousses. It has appeared advantageous to be able to have product available in the form of a solid.
The Applicant has surprisingly discovered novel cosmetic compositions in the form of a solid exhibiting special characteristics.
The compositions according to the invention have the advantage of being hydratable at the surface in contact with water or a wet surface at the time of use, of permitting a good release of the cosmetically active products onto the keratinous material to be treated, of rapidly regaining, after drying, their initial solid form without deterioration and of being capable of being subsequently employed again merely by hydration at the surface.
The compositions according to the invention also have the advantage of being able to contain hydrophobic and/or lipophilic compounds, dispersed without the aid of surfactant.
The compositions according to the invention can be presented in the form of a stick, pencil or cake and in themselves constitute novel types of products for makeup, such as lipsticks, foundations and eye shadows; novel types of products for hair care and/or conditioning, such as hard hair-styling gels; novel types of products in stick form for face or body care.
The subject of the invention is therefore a nondetergent cosmetic composition in the form of a solid, characterized in that it is hydratable and that it does not have an adhesive feel in the nonhydrated state.
The term nondetergent means that the composition does not make it possible to remove from a solid medium such as, for example, the skin or the hair, the soiling which adheres thereto by dispersing or dissolving it.
Hydratable is intended according to the invention to mean a composition which has a water absorption capacity according to the test described below which is higher than 50 mg, preferably higher than 100 mg and lower than 3000 mg and more particularly between 200 and 1200 mg.
A composition which does not have an adhesive feel is intended according to the invention to mean a composition the adhesive bonding of which in the nonhydrated state defined according to the test described below is lower than 0.2 g, preferably between 0 and 0.1 g.
The nonhydrated state corresponds to the initial state of the composition, more particularly before use, that is to say before coming into contact with water or a wet surface.
The adhesive bonding of the composition in the nonhydrated state is determined by the weight of product pulled off by an absorbent paper applied for 10 seconds to the solid composition. The composition is in a round Petri dish of 4 cm diameter, the composition has a thickness of 8 mm over a diameter of 4 cm. The surface of the composition is planar and horizontal. A square piece of absorbent paper (Sopalin of weight per unit area equal to 45 g/m
2
) of 4 cm
2
(2 cm×2 cm) which has been weighed beforehand (W
1
) is applied. After 10 seconds' contact time the paper is pulled off and is weighed again (W
2
) and the quantity of product pulled off is calculated (W
2
−W
1
).
The water absorption capacity is determine, by the weight of water absorbed in 10 seconds by the solid composition.
The composition is in a round Petri dish of 4 cm diameter, the composition has a thickness of 8 mm over a diameter of 4 cm. The surface of the composition is planar and horizontal. The dish containing the composition is weighed and then 5 g of water are poured onto the composition. After 10 seconds' contact time the unabsorbed water is removed. The dish is weighed again and the quantity of water absorbed is calculated.
The rigid compositions according to the invention generally exhibit a resistance to compression higher than or equal to 50 grams, at ambient temperature, after entry by a cylindrical probe of revolution which has a diameter of 0.8 cm into the gel matrix in a thickness of 5 mm, at a speed of 1 mm/s, holding said probe in the gel matrix for 15 seconds and withdrawing said probe from the gel matrix at a speed of 1 mm/s; the resistance to compression being measured with a texture analyzer of the TAXT2 type, marketed by the Rheo company.
The resistance to compression is preferably lower than 300 g.
Preferably, in the case of the rigid compositions in accordance with the invention, a curve is observed relating to the rigidity of the gel and to the deposition of the gel on the probe as a function of time, in conditions as defined above, which exhibits a positive peak corresponding to the force of compression of the gel after entry of the probe, but exhibiting no negative peak corresponding to a deposition of gel on the probe after withdrawal of the latter or exhibiting a negative peak smaller than 1 g, preferably smaller than 0.2 g.
More particularly, the composition includes at least one gelling agent in a cosmetically acceptable medium.
The cosmetically acceptable medium is preferably aqueous, that it is to say that it includes either only water or water and a solvent such as, for example, ethanol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, isopropanol, glycol ethers such as the C
1
-C
4
alkyl ethers of mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol and mixtures thereof.
Of course, the maximum quantity of water and/or of solvents is limited by the fact that the composition according to the invention must be in the form of a solid and must exhibit the characteristics described above.
According to the invention the gelling agents are preferably water-soluble or hydrophilic.
The gelling agents present in the compositions of the invention are preferably chosen from the group made up of:
extracts of algae, such as agar, carrageenans, alginates;
extracts of seeds, such as carob gum, guar gum and their derivatives;
exudates of plants, such as gum arabic, karaya gum, gum tragacanth and gatty gum;
exudates of microorganisms, such as xanthan gum,
cellulose or its derivatives such as carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose or hydroxyethylcellulose and celluloses modified especially by grafting of an alkyl group;
extracts of fruits, such as pectins;
gelling agents of animal origin, such as gelatin and caseinates;
water-soluble gelling synthetic polymers such as crosslinked polyacrylic acids such as “Carbopol” or “Pemulen” from Goodrich;
silicon derivatives such as synthetic hectorites like the products “Laponite RD and RDS” sold by Waverly, aluminum and magnesium silicates like the product “Veegum” sold by Vanderbilt;
mixtures of the above compounds.
The gelling agents are preferably chosen from:
extracts of seeds, such as carob gum, guar gum and their derivatives;
extracts of algae, such as agar, carrageenans, alginates;
and mixtures thereof.
Still more particularly, nonionic or ionic guar gums and mixtures of carob gum and of carrageenans are employed according to the invention.
The guar gums are more particularly modified with C
1
-C
6
hydroxyalkyl groups.
Among the hydroxyalkyl groups the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups may be mentioned by way of example.
Th

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