Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Preparations characterized by special physical form – Cosmetic – antiperspirant – dentifrice
Reexamination Certificate
1999-12-22
2001-07-10
Dodson, Shelley A. (Department: 1616)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Preparations characterized by special physical form
Cosmetic, antiperspirant, dentifrice
C424S070100, C424S401000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06258367
ABSTRACT:
This application is a 371 of PCT/FR98/02865 filed Dec. 23, 1998.
The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions containing a novel thickening system based on associative polyurethanes, as well as to their use in particular as leave-in haircare gels or styling gels.
The thickening and/or gelation of aqueous media with polymers has been an important subject of cosmetic research for a long time. The production of an advantageous thickening effect with a water-soluble polymer generally assumes a high molar mass and a large hydrodynamic volume. The gelation of an aqueous medium is then considered as being the result of a three-dimensional polymer network obtained by crosslinking linear polymers or by copolymerizing bifunctional and polyfunctional monomers. However, the use of such polymers of very high molar mass poses a certain number of problems, such as the relatively unpleasant texture and the difficulty in spreading the gels obtained.
One advantageous approach consists in using, as thickeners, polymers capable of reversibly self-associating or of associating with other molecules or particles. This physical association gives rise to thixotropic or rheofluidizing macromolecular systems, i.e. systems whose viscosity depends on the shear forces to which they are subjected.
Such polymers capable of reversibly self-associating or of associating with other molecules are known as “associative polymers”. The forces of interaction in play can be very different in nature, for example of electrostatic nature, of hydrogen bonding type or hydrophobic interactions.
One specific case of associative polymers is amphiphilic polymers, i.e. polymers comprising one or more hydrophilic portions which make them soluble in water, and one or more hydrophobic zones via which the polymers interact and self-asserble or assemble with other molecules.
It is known practice to prepare hair compositions in gel form using, as thickening system, such associative amphiphilic polymers, in combination with surfactants. It is thought that the advantageous rheological properties of the gels thus obtained result from the formation of mixed micelles formed by the surfactants and by the hydrophobic portions of the amphiphilic polymers, these micelles constituting a multitude of physical crosslinking points.
However, these compositions based on associative polymers and surfactants do not always have the desired cosmetic properties. Thus, the presence of surfactants, even in small amounts, can bring about an undesirable change in the cosmetic properties of the said compositions, such as the properties of application or of feel after drying. Moreover, in particular in the sector of leave-in haircare or styling gels, it is important to be able to distribute the product uniformly over the entire head of hair so as to avoid excessive loads and the cosmetic defects resulting therefrom.
French patent application No. 2,738,835 relates to aqueous cosmetic compositions thickened using at least one amphiphilic polymer associated with at least one protein containing a hydrophobic group.
It has now been discovered that it is possible to obtain a good thickening, or even gelling, effect and advantageous cosmetic properties by combining associative amphiphilic polyurethanes with silicones containing quaternary ammonium groups.
The gel obtained by this combination has a very melting texture and is pleasant to apply. The final feel on dried hair is more pleasant and less laden. The gel moreover has excellent styling power.
One subject of the present invention is thus a cosmetic composition comprising at least one associative nonionic polyurethane in combination with at least one silicone containing quaternary ammonium groups.
Another subject of the present invention is the use of the combination of at least associative nonionic polyurethane and at least one silicone containing quaternary ammonium groups as a thickening system, in particular for the manufacture of leave-in haircare and styling gels.
A third subject of the invention is a cosmetic process for treating the hair with cosmetic compositions comprising at least one nonionic associative polyurethane and at least one silicone containing quaternary ammonium groups.
Other subjects will become apparent on reading the description and the examples which follow.
The cosmetic compositions in accordance with the invention are essentially characterized in that they contain, in a cosmetically acceptable medium,
(A) at least one amphiphilic nonionic associative polyurethane, and
(B) at least one silicone containing quaternary ammonium groups.
The nonionic associative polyurethanes used in the present invention preferably correspond to the general formula
in which
at least one of the radicals R
1
and R
2
represents a C
8
-C
18
higher alkyl group and the other, where appropriate, represents a C
1
-C
6
lower alkyl group, preferably a C
1
-C
4
lower alkyl group,
R
3
represents a C
4
-C
36
, preferably C
6
-C
10
, hydrocarbon-based radical,
R
4
represents a hydrogen atom or a C
1
-C
6
alkyl radical, preferably a hydrogen atom,
a ranges, independently, from 90 to 600, and
b is from 1 to 4.
According to the invention, the expression “C
1
-C
5
lower alkyl group” means an alkyl group containing a linear or branched chain comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, n-pentyl and n-hexyl radicals, as well as the corresponding branched isomers.
In accordance with the invention, the C
8
-C
18
higher alkyl groups denote alkyl groups containing a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, such as octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl and octadecyl radicals.
In one preferred embodiment, only one of the radicals R
1
and R
2
represents a C
8
-C
18
higher alkyl chain and the other represents a C
1
-C
6
lower alkyl group.
An associative polyurethane in which one of the radicals in &agr;, &ohgr; represents an octadecyl group and the other represents a methyl group is used in particular.
The associative polyurethanes used in the compositions of the present invention are used in the form of an aqueous solution or suspension optionally containing a certain amount of soluble starch. This starch can be any starch extracted from natural sources, such as wheat starch, cornstarch, rice starch, potato starch, etc. and which has been chemically, enzymatically or microbiologically modified so as to be soluble in water.
A preferred polymer is sold by the company Rohm & Haas under the name Acrysol 46. It is a polyurethane obtained by condensation of hexamethylene diisocyanate and polyethylene glycol, and bearing, on average, a methyl residue and an octadecyl residue at its ends, respectively. This polymer is in the form of an aqueous solution containing 15% by weight of polyurethane active material also containing 3-5% of an enzymatically modified starch matrix.
In accordance with the invention, the expression “silicone containing quaternary ammonium groups” means any silicone comprising one or more quaternary ammonium groups. These quaternary ammonium groups can be attached in the &agr;-&ohgr; positions or in the form of side groups. They can be attached directly to the polysiloxane skeleton or can be borne by hydrocarbon-based chains, in particular polyoxyalkylene chains.
According to the invention, in accordance with the generally accepted meaning, the term “silicone” means any polymer having a structure based on the alternation of silicon and oxygen atoms, linked together via so-called siloxane (—Si—O—Si—) bonds, and also characterized by the existence of silicon-carbon bonds. These silicones, or polysiloxanes, are generally obtained by polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes. The hydrocarbon-based radicals most commonly borne by the silicon atoms are lower alkyl radicals, in particular methyl, fluoroalkyl radicals, aryl radicals and in particular phenyl.
The silicones containing quaternary ammonium groups of the present invention are chosen, for example, from the compounds c
Dodson Shelley A.
Finnegan Henderson Farabow Garrett & Dunner L.L.P.
L'Oreal
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