Cosmetic composition containing a cationic polymer and an...

Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Live hair or scalp treating compositions

Reexamination Certificate

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C424S070110, C424S070120, C424S070130, C424S070150, C424S070160, C424S070170, C424S401000

Reexamination Certificate

active

06214326

ABSTRACT:

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions containing, in combination, at least one cationic polymer and an acrylic terpolymer, as well as to the use of these compositions for the treatment of keratinous material, in particular the hair.
Cationic polymers are used to give the hair good cosmetic properties such as softness, a pleasant feel and easy disentangling.
It is advantageous to formulate hair compositions containing cationic polymers, which have a high viscosity and are in a thickened liquid form which spreads well, such as a styling or care cream or gel, these properties being very much appreciated by consumers since the composition does not run down the forehead, the nape of the neck, the face or into the eyes.
For this, use is generally made of thickening and/or gelling polymers. However, the introduction of cationic polymers into thickeners often leads to problems of fluidization and of loss of clarity, and cosmetic performance levels obtained are sometimes insufficient for care products.
Thickening and/or gelling polymers are known which contain in their chain a hydrophilic part and a hydrophobic part consisting of a fatty chain, such as the product “Pemulen TR1” sold by the company Goodrich or the “Acrysol” polymers sold by the company Rohm & Haas. The polymer “Pemulen TR1”, used in combination with cationic polymers, does not lead to a gel of satisfactory texture and does not give satisfactory cosmetic results, in particular as regards the fixing power, the softness and the feel. The polymer “Acrysol 44”, used in combination with a cationic polymer, leads to a liquid and cloudy product.
The Applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that by using a novel family of thickening and/or gelling polymers and by combining them with cationic polymers, it is possible to obtain cosmetic formulations which have a satisfactory viscosity at a relatively low pH, which are not pasty or greasy, which spread well and which give the hair good properties of softness, feel and easy disentangling while at the same time having good fixing properties.
The subject of the present invention is thus cosmetic compositions containing, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous support, at least one cationic polymer and an acrylic terpolymer which will be defined in greater detail later in the description.
This polymer makes it possible in particular to prepare gelled or thickened, leave-in or rinse-out, aqueous-organic or aqueous compositions containing cosmetically acceptable solvents.
The advantages of this terpolymer are that it is stable in electrolytic medium and has very good thickening power at a pH equal to or above 5.5, making it possible to achieve a good level of viscosity and to be able to use high concentrations of alcohol.
The acrylic terpolymer used in accordance with the invention is soluble or swellable in alkalis. It is characterized in that it comprises:
a) about 20 to 70% by weight, preferably 25 to 55% by weight, of a carboxylic acid containing &agr;, &bgr;-monoethylenic unsaturation;
b) about 20 to 80% by weight, preferably 30 to 65% by weight, of a non-surfactant monomer containing monoethylenic unsaturation, which is different from a), and
c) about 0.5 to 60% by weight, preferably 10 to 50% by weight, of a nonionic urethane monomer which is the product of reaction of a monohydric nonionic surfactant with a monoisocyanate containing monoethylenic unsaturation.
The carboxylic acid containing &agr;, &bgr;-monoethylenic unsaturation a) can be chosen from many acids and in particular acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid and maleic acid. Methacrylic acid is preferred. A large proportion of acid is essential in order to give a polymer structure which dissolves and gives a thickening effect by reaction with an alkaline compound such as sodium hydroxide, alkanolamines, aminomethylpropanol or aminomethyl-propanediol.
The terpolymer should also contain a large proportion, indicated above, of a monomer b) containing monoethylenic unsaturation which has no surfactant properties. The preferred monomers are those which give polymers that are water-insoluble when they are homopolymerized and are illustrated by C
1
-C
4
alkyl acrylates and methacrylates such as methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate and butyl acrylate, or corresponding methacrylates. The monomers more particularly preferred are methyl and ethyl acrylates. Other monomers which can be used are styrene, vinyltoluene, vinyl acetate, acrylonitrile and vinylidene chloride. Non-reactive monomers are preferred, such monomers being those in which the single ethylenic group is the only group which is reactive under the polymerization conditions. However, monomers which contain groups that are reactive under the action of heat can be used in certain situations, such as hydroxyethyl acrylate.
The monohydric nonionic surfactants used to obtain the nonionic urethane monomer c) are well known and are generally alkoxylated hydrophobic compounds containing an alkylene oxide forming the hydrophilic part of the molecule. The hydrophobes generally consist of an aliphatic alcohol or an alkylphenol in which a carbon chain containing at least six carbon atoms constitutes the hydrophobic part of the surfactant.
The preferred monohydric nonionic surfactants have the formula:
in which R is a C
6
-C
30
alkyl or C
8
-C
30
aralkyl group, R′ is a C
1
-C
4
alkyl group, n is an average number ranging approximately from 5 to 150 and m is an average number ranging approximately from 0 to 50, with the condition that n is at least as large as m and that n+m=5-150.
As preferred C
6
-C
30
alkyl groups, mention may be made of dodecyl and C
18
-C
26
alkyl radicals. As aralkyl groups, mention may be made more particularly of (C
8
-C
13
)alkylphenyl groups. The preferred group R′ is the methyl group.
The monoisocyanate containing monoethylenic unsaturation which is used to form the nonionic urethane monomer c) can be chosen from a wide variety of compounds. A compound containing any copolymerizable unsaturation such as acrylic or methacrylic unsaturation can be used. An allylic unsaturation imparted by allyl alcohol can also be used. The preferred monoethylenic monoisocyanate is &agr;,&agr;-dimethyl-m-isopropenyl-benzylisocyanate.
The acrylic terpolymer defined above is obtained by aqueous emulsion copolymerization of the components a), b) and c) which is entirely common and described in patent application EP-A-0,173,109.
As terpolymers which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the products of reaction of methacrylic acid as component a), of ethyl acrylate as component b) and of a nonionic urethane macromonomer as component c), having the following structure:
in which p′ ranges from 6 to 150 and is preferably equal to 30 and R
2
is a C
8-C
13
alkyl radical, such as that described in Example 3 of patent application EP-A-0,173,109.
The preferred acrylic terpolymer used according to the invention is obtained from methacrylic acid as component a), methyl acrylate as component b) and a nonionic urethane macromonomer as component c), having the following structure:
in which p ranges from 6 to 150 and R
1
is a C
18
-C
26
alkyl radical, preferably C
20
-C
24
, linear, of plant origin, such as the docosyl radical.
The acrylic terpolymer is present in the cosmetic compositions of the invention in concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight.
The cationic polymers which can be used in accordance with the present invention can be chosen from any of those already known per se, in particular those described in patent application EP-A-0,337,354 and French patent applications FR-A-2,270,846, 2,383,660, 2,598,611, 2,470,596 and 2,519,863.
Even more generally, for the purposes of the present invention, the expression “cationic polymer” denotes any polymer containing cationic groups or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups.
The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units con

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