Textiles: manufacturing – Textile product fabrication or treatment – Of thread interlaced article or fabric
Patent
1997-08-28
1999-11-23
Vanatta, Amy
Textiles: manufacturing
Textile product fabrication or treatment
Of thread interlaced article or fabric
28156, 28166, D03D 700
Patent
active
059877219
DESCRIPTION:
BRIEF SUMMARY
The present invention relates to a process for treating fabric and to a fabric construction system, particularly though not exclusively, for application in clothing manufacture, which enables a certain degree and type of stretch to be imparted into, for example, a waistband, which hitherto has not been achieved.
Conventionally, waistband interlining can be elasticated and the outer fabric of the waistband ruched or gathered, providing for a large degree of stretch whilst compromising the tailored look and fit of the garment to which such an elasticated waistband is attached; or comprises a non-stretch interlining which acts as a stiffener stabilzing the outer fabric, affording some degree of reinforcement and perhaps providing added resilience.
The disadvantage of the latter system of construction is that there is little give or ease in that area of the garment incorporating the waistband, and the fit of the garment may become uncomfortable to the wearer, for example after meals when the waist expands; in prolonged wear the top of the waistband can be forced to give way and effectively roll over rendering the look of the garment unsightly. In addition a wearer falling mid way between sizing of off the peg waistbanded garments selects a garment which is either too tight or too loose in normal wear.
Relatively recently waistbands incorporating a combination of interlinings, linings and outer fabrics, although not necessarily all three components, which have inherent give or ease and provide a degree of stretch have been produced and sold in trousers and skirts. Waistbands incorporating stretch fabrics for example those containing Lycra or Elastane, and/or those referred to as weft stretch, in some cases achieve a satisfactory level of comfort.
The present invention is therefore concerned primarily with consistently achieving ease and comfort using conventional non-stretch outer fabrics, for example those where the inherent characteristic in the length or width of the material does not have a sufficient degree of ease or stretch to enable a stretch waistband to be produced with conventional methods. Some examples of such fabrics include woven or knitted combinations of polyester/wool, polyester/viscose, cotton etc.
U.S. Pat. No. 4,051,215 discloses a method of applying heat and pressure to a woven fabric to impart elasticity in its warp direction, which includes the use of a cellulose reactive resin solution. German Patent Specification No. 2444923 discloses affixing an interlining to a fabric, in particular stitching a stiffening strip to a wider facing strip.
According to a first aspect of the present invention there i s provided a method of treating a woven fabric, the method including applying heat and pressure to the fabric in such a manner that the yarn strands substantially across the width of the fabric are forced closer together thus imparting generally semi-permanent or permanent ease or stretch into the fabric.
It is intended that the fabric so treated would be an outer fabric, but the process can also be applied to lining or interlining fabrics.
The fabric treated may be in full width form, but typically the fabric (e.g. an outer fabric) is cut into strips either down the length of the piece (i.e. in the warp direction--where continuous strips may be used) or at right angles across the piece (i.e. in the weft direction). This provides the classic tailored look in the finished waistband. If it is desired to achieve a higher degree of stretch the fabric may be cut at a predetermined angler to the warp or weft direction which will create additional ease in the strip dependent on the angle of bias selected, but will compromise the traditional look and would be unacceptable in fabrics with a check pattern for example.
Naturally, if the strips are cut at right angles across the piece (i.e in the weft direction), the reference made herein to the strands substantially across the width of the fabric should be interpreted as meaning the strands substantially across the width of the strip.
The strips may be
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